
Getting lost driving to Quatretondeta, due to an over complicated route planner, was hardly an ideal start to a relaxing week. Fortunately a friendly local jumped into his car and led me back to the right road. Quatretondeta is a small village that lies amongst the mountains and valleys of the Marina Alta in the Alicante province. Thanks to the new, but unobtrusive, A7 motorway, it is only a short journey up from the vibrant Alicante coast.
The base for the weeks walking holiday was the delightfully refurbished, from two adjacent village houses, El Frares Hotel. Offering fi fteen comfortable en-suite double bedrooms with an inviting bar and cosy lounges everybody immediately falls in love with the rustic décor and welcoming atmosphere, which the owners Brian and Pat have worked hard over many years to create. The hotel dining room features a terrace with incredible village and mountain views a truly wonderful setting to sample the local cuisine. Following a dinner of healthy local produce served around a big table packed with eager walkers anxious to sample both the fl avours of Spain and the tempting choice of well priced Spanish wines we all adjourned to the bar. Brian explained the week’s expeditions, selected from his vast repertoire, with a daily choice of high or lower long or shorter walks lead by experienced friendly leaders.
Many people choose this approach to walking to be sure of seeing as much as possible of the local areas whilst having the fi ner points explained en route free from map and compass worries. But if you do fancy a days independent exploring then that is not a problem.
The first day’s longer walk was up to the old Pozos, the huge conical buildings used many years ago for ice storage. After a short journey, in one of the hotels own mini buses, we set off uphill for a heart-thumping climb up to the ridge. We were rewarded by magnifi cent views across the valleys with their almond and olive groves then on to explore the Pozos. A great start to the week with the chance to further acquaint yourself with your fellow walkers who hailed from far and wide. An interesting cross section of people adds greatly to the walking experience and dinner table conversation. The debates were far ranging and we covered many a topic including Greenland central heating systems, more interesting than it sounds with genuine native Greenland input! It’s also an ideal holiday for singles as the shared interest of walking quickly forms a common camaraderie.
This area really is a haven of tranquillity with only the bird and insect life for company. On most walks, we never encountered another living soul unlike many other over developed walking locations. Brian told us that a recent specialist bird-spotting week had racked up a list of over one hundred species much to the bird enthusiast’s delight. The fl ora and fauna with plenty of exotics like orchids grow in abundance, due to much of Spain having escaped the ice age and combined with the lack of pollution make it a treat for botanists. The aromas of the wild fl owers and various herbs including wild rosemary were even enough to excite me, a total novice at botany.
A true feeling of at one with nature pervades over you as you stride along occasionally stopping for a closer look at one of natures rarities.
Your stress fades gently away as the only problem you face is not to over indulge again at tonight’s dinner table.
Equally enjoyable, if not even the highlight, was the walk starting behind the local town of Alcoy to see the Griffi n vulture colony. These birds are currently being fed and protected as part of a vulture conservation project with the objective of re-establishing them back into the true wild of the Spanish countryside. We were spoilt by some spectacular views of these graceful birds gliding lazily though the valleys below whilst we ate our al fresco picnic lunches on top of the breezy ridge.
Brian and Pat’s vast local knowledge and experience add to the pre dinner drinks discussions with a good range of reference books readily on hand to confi rm that rare bird or plant. The village locals frequent the hotel bar and add even more Spanish fl avour to a truly relaxing and satisfying holiday experience. El Frares newly updated web site at
WWW. MOUNTAINWALKS.COM will give you the latest prices, holiday choices, including speciality weeks, and availability. Pickups at Alicante airport are pre-bookable. So you can get those boots and rucksacks out and look forward to the walking, talking, eating and drinking - the perfect way to spend a week in a truly unspoilt location.
First published in The Inland Magazine March 2008